13d: yes, I have "I" for the second letter of the 2nd word. I think it's an &Lit: who (pl) would provide cuisine to one's Persian while one is on holiday?
Speaking of Persians, many years ago I did a CELTA course and, as part of it, we had a couple of Farsi lessons so we'd appreciate how it felt to learn a language from scratch - they have quite a few French words in their vocab.
Belated PDM on 7! Thanks to Brendan for the hint, though I'm not proud of how long it took to sink in. 😳 Should have given 7 more consideration for COD...
Surprisingly, as difficult as it was for me to understand 13d, I did actually write it in quite early, but 7d was my LOI - I addition to not having heard of it, the cryptic reference to "gold ......." just didn't click.