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...half the battle seems to be knowing what's being looked for!

My thanks to tonynanni and drxx. I've just got back in from walking round Shrewsbury so I'll give it another go.

The grid is an astonishing construction, almost a work of art. The 90-degree symmetry must have been a huge constraint, but thematically it's absolutely right.

Yes it is. And the long, choppy journey upto that point was quite thematic too (+ just a little nausea).

I am one of the people still struggling with this. Have filled in most of grid (though not sure how I came by some of the answers). Please could some kind soul tell me which are the 8 clues that required the cardinal points. I have only identified possibly 6a, 9, 21 & 23.
Thank you

You are right so far shellraine - I think the rest have all been mentioned earlier (18a 22a 32a and 4d).

Thanks drxx, I got confused reading through. I had seen the hint saying the across ones were in the order SENW, but then it said 22 and 32 were both e’s which would seem to mean that 6=S, 18=E, 22=E and 32=E? Sorry if I am being really dim.

The Es are letters to the side of the cardinal points - but I was probably overcomplicating things.

12a An unreliable person slipping right into a sleep (4) O?ER ower ??

the O came from 5d nono ?? which i don't see either...apologies if that's wrong!

Hi Scarlett,
I could be completely wrong, because I'm finding this puzzle very hard.
I had 12a as OWER at first from LOWER, but then spotted 8 d began F (ifIi'm right about that). So I presume the posh people are TOFFS. But then can't parse the clue.