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“Solvers must change one letter...”

Thanks to all on here, without whom ...

"In each across entry in 12 rows"; is not this the 13th...?

Thanks MPRS and smithsax. That was my understanding but there is ambiguity in the instructions as in previous weeks

I do not see how applying the relevant answer to the sorted circled cells is ambiguous - isn't it a direct instruction? It is to me.

Neither is "to show a two-word thematic location" in any way ambiguous.

I agree Gitto. I took a while to get the required result from the circled letters but I was in no doubt as to what was required. I found the business with the added letters in last week's puzzle far more confusing!

I'm still trying to finish filling the grid with a few gaps in the SW corner.
A hint for 40a would be much appreciated.

Romeo and Juliet refer to single letters - these are reversed around a word for fool (think primates!) to give another word for a fool as the answer.

Thank you loge. I had gone down a Shakespearean rabbit hole.

Thank you, Norah! Clear and sensible. The two threads were set up so that anyone not wanting to stumble across an answer could use the other thread. I am happy to visit this thread for both oblique tips but also more straightforward help when desperate.