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I thought this was fun. Certainly it requires a fair degree of cold solving, but the clueing is very reasonable. Once the grid is filled there is a very obvious way in. Only one word in Chambers fits the pattern for 9a (TEA is handy to confirm that) and the rest falls out very quickly. I’m astonished by the overelaboration people seem to be going to. They are making life very hard for themselves

A very easy cold solve (bar 3) but an incommensurately baffling grid fill which is way over my ageing head, the life of which is way too short for this kind of thing.

Am still struggling but not yet ready to throw the towel off the sandbank.
What I find is that usually if I can cold solve half a dozen clues I stand a fair chance of finishing and will continue. I'm not sure about this one, though am proceeding satisfactorily on cold-solving.

Can I ask two specific questions?
Cockie could you elaborate a little on your post 21. The answer I have for 9 across is the first half of the phrase "........ weavy". My answer does not involve an E. Have I misread your hint?

Next to 6 down which is a four letter word beginning with 'C'. 5 across has 'N' as it's third letter. Do I assume that C must encode to a two letter word - the fist letter of which encodes to N?

Hope I am not lowering the level of debate. I do so enjoy this exercise. Thanks

For 5 across (which I have not solved) N (assuming correct) encodes to the same letter as the first letter of the pair to which C encodes.

williamseal - if you write in the 10 letters onf 9A (or as many as you know) you will see that two occur three times. It's not a huge leap to think that one of them might code to E ... There is only one word in Chambers which fits the pattern. If you choose the wrong one to try for E, try the other.

Thanks Cockie
Your prompt reply appreciated. I will battle on!

Cockie, I hope this isn't asking for too much of a spoiler, but when you say the 10 letters of 9 across, do you mean the letters from the original answers?

Loge if you apply cockie's directions top 8d (original), you will be there.

Had to laugh when I saw your comment about overelaboration - I didn't even look at 9a as a way in. The only issue I have is that I can't prove 23ac or 29 as I don't have access, the means or indeed shelf-space for the full OED. I know 29 only as a local river feature (assuming I have the correct answer).

I suspect there will be a lot of people kicking themselves after finishing this one!

I have eventually got a nearly full grid, and all the substitutions other than that for J. I am struggling on my last 3 clues which are 16a, 10d and 23d. Time for a walk and some fresh air, then hopefully I can finish this.