Thanks to Paul. I found this one tough, but an ingenious construction.
I'm a longtime Paul fan, but his trademark frequent linked clues sometimes irritate me (and no doubt many others )š, and it took about a half hour before my annoyance changed to a grudging thumbs up.
Had to go into "Vlad/Enigmatist mode" and guess *many* solutions before parsing. I guessed the theme straight off, but couldn't confirm it for quite a while.
FOI 7, LOI 1. A couple of solutions, including a UK-centric thematic, followed from parsing but required Google to confirm.
A good number of clues deserve COD consideration, but it's too hard to select one. Most thematics were excellent. I did jot down candidates 3, 17, 9, 15, 21, 19, 22a, 22d while solving.