I'm a bit torn on this one. On the one hand, I can appreciate and marvel at the skill that went into constructing the clues with thematic and mechanical constraints. On the other, it seemed that in many cases those constraints led to an unpleasant, confusing, or incomplete experience for the solver. I certainly felt myself in each of those categories at some point in my solve.
The end game on its own I found quite enjoyable. I struggled with many of the misspellings and clues in what might be the most important part of the description so it took me awhile to get there, but when I did, I enjoyed the result.
In the end I am fairly happy with this one as a fun experiment in clue writing. But as someone who tends to disregard surface reads and deeply appreciates a smooth, enjoyable solving experience, I think I'll stick to my less thematic surfaces.