Finished last night , enjoyed this prize found it easier than recent weeks but with some clever and intricate clues. My first one in was 16a a write in. Agree traverse may not be the usual verb but I think the double definition is beautiful.
LOI was 19d because being a cricket fan I was on wrong track..
There are a number of CODs 16a, 21a,20a and 5d ( because my daughter in law is one) .
If this is a special anniversary for Brendan — very best wishes and thank you for sharing it with us.