Thanks to Paul for this week's offering.
Clearly themed, but some thematics took effort to figure out. I found the theme tiresome at first, but warmed up to it.
Started slowly, feared DNF but wound up just under median solving time. Tale of two puzzles: right side was easy but left side frustrating.
FOI 5.
LOI (= COD as often happens) 9. 10 was very nearly COD; also enjoyed 22d and 27.
One solution was a totally unfamiliar word which took forever to deduce from parsing and required Google to confirm. It was next to LOI.
Suspected a pangram, but not to be. No Pauline clues stood out.