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Well, after putting it down in a fit of pique when I thought it was a Harry Potter themed crossword, I picked it up again this morning and really enjoyed it. I'm embarrassed it took me so long on my LOI (16d) to work out the parsing, but I thought for COD the clever 12a vied with 23d, which I believe is a reference to a marvellous episode of Inside Number Nine.
Only answer I still can't parse is 18d.
Thanks to those who encouraged me to take a second look.

18d parses 1,2, then 4 with N inserted

luko, I'm from N. America, have seen the term for "hospital" in 11, but always thought it was UK usage. Not used in USA AFAICT. :-)

Chrise - Thanks. As ever, it seemed obvious when someone points it out.

And on the three letter abbreviation for hospital I'd never seen that before either. I assume it relates to a Sanatorium in particular, but could well be wrong.

I thought the "hospital" 3-letter term was UK because I see it occasionally in cryptic crosswords but nowhere else.
The most common US usage is "Port-O-***", which is something completely different. :-)

I think the abbreviation is rather dated - Great War, perhaps? Is it also used at Hogwarts?

I think used particularly for TB hospitals? I also remember it fondly from the Anthony Buckeridge 'Jennings' books, set in a boarding prep. School, where it refers to the 'sick room'. E.g in 'Jennings Follows a Clue' - 'Gosh, Darbie, there's a light on in the ...!'
Didn't go to that kind of school myself.