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Another fun puzzle which, I agree, wasn't too daunting. My only really minor quibble (if my solution is correct) is that the changes in rows 2 & 3 weren't to non-words. If they were it would have been neater in my view.

Just like Smithsax I first read top to bottom, but otherwise a nice gentle puzzle. I would be grateful if someone could help me parse 20 down - where does the olive come in?

The second location remains my number one spot in the world (ahead of the Taj Mahal and Uluru and even my sandbank here on the North Norfolk coast). Mrs Seal and I visited in 1974 to mark her retirement and we have just pulled out the photograph album. Thank you eXternal.

More usually accompanied with ‘branch’ - but Chambers has it alone - as a homophone for the answer.

Thanks mattrom, 'twas as I suspected: your nudge was perfect!

Well I huffed and puffed my way through this but got there in the end. As an aside, if you just concentrate on words that need attention you may find one of the four things that you need to use (clank clank) at the beginning. Sadly with 3 spare letters but nearly a fine coincidence. 🙂

Is the clue for 20d really as seedy as it seems? It appears to be and lit with a homophone and a vulgar way of referring to 'olive'.

No- see post 33

OK, so the definition is one word. I took the whole clue as being a homophone and then the second reading as an offensive term for somebody - which surprised me.

Bobbycollins, I'm not sure howw you have managed to arrive at a correct solution without changing non-words in rows 2 and 3. The only clear way to get the route is to change non-words so that real words result. Even then there are enough ambiguities to complicate things a bit.

Mea Culpa, murky. I found the route after finding the destination. Then I was too thick to realise that my post was drivel!!