Geeker, apologies if you already know this but a little context might be useful ...
For 21 years the Everyman was set with regular aplomb by the wonderful Allan Scott who retired in 2015. Then, on Allan's recommendation (I think), the torch was passed to the also well-respected Colin Gumbrell, but he retired in 2019. Regulars may well remember that for the next few weeks and months there followed what can best be described as a "mixed-bag" as editors tried desperately to fill those admittedly large shoes.
Speaking purely from a personal viewpoint, I began my cryptic puzzle solving journey with the Everyman, which is why I still have such an affection for it and why, for the albeit brief period that it lost its way, post Scott and Gumbrell, I found it so disheartening. But it's also why I'm now so happy, because the quality has been of a consistently high level for quite a while.
I don't know whether the Observer now used one specific setter or choose from a pool but, regardless, the Everyman is once again the joy that it always used to be:-)