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It is a bit if a chore, particularly because of the language. As others say, look west...but not too far. The incomplete message in the grid is divided 5,2,4,2,5,2.

Thanks for the encouragement but the sun will be shining here again tomorrow and there is much else to enjoy.

I remember coming off the slopes in the Trois Vallées in a sudden and violent snowstorm with a gentleman in a leather jacket and a gauloise stuck to his lower lip: “Ce n’est pas un plaisir” he grunted again and again as we repeatedly wove past one another, in long defensive traverses down to the resort. I have never to this day worked out how he kept his fag burning. But he did.

Okay, after the best part of two days and having been put through the wringer, I've finally finished and can appreciate what a great a construction this is - the subject, clues and placement of everything in the endgame is absolute genius.

Bravo to Botox for a quite brilliant puzzle:-)

Ok. I admit it. I was wrong and am a confirmed idiot.

After a long and bracing walk this morning, the cogs at the back of the Aubrey brain began to turn again and a PDM occurred. The final stages of the gridfill and a very satisfying endgame came quickly thereafter, accompanied by a bao bun stuffed with Korean fried chicken that was - almost - equally satisfying.

Thank you, Botox; and apologies for my earlier churlishness.