Well, I enjoyed this one very much after a slow start - more due to tackling it with insomnia at silly o'clock this morning than any innate difficulty). A nice mix of Pauline clues and a subtle theme that, as somebody said, was more than a little Araucarian. Thanks Paul
I'm surprised people didn't know the author in 12a, I'm sure you know her works (many of my generation fell in love with Jenny Agutter because of the probably best-known interpretation).
I had a colleague from NZ who definitely claimed 29 for her nation, in fact she blamed the inadequacy of UK baristas' efforts as the main reason for her eventual decision to return to Auckland!
FOI 1d after failing on all the acrosses (see above), LOI 27 (no excuse!), COD a three-way toss-up between 12, 29 and 7