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Quite possibly Kea. He was always one to overdo everything...

A good steer, Demeter. Two words (6,6) precede the BY. One a place, the other a side of meat.

Thanks Meursault.

Thanks Meursault and Demeter. I've limped over the finishing line - couldn't have done it without all your help.

All done now after hour upon hour of trial and error for the main code. Then the same for the anagrammed code, which I suppose I didn't really need, but it's nice to tie up loose ends. That said, I still cannot find the two letter change in 8,28. Anyone have any ideas?
This was an extremely difficult puzzle but very satisfying when complete. Many thanks to the setter, an anagram of which is an old version of what most of us have in our heads right now.

I think wall of water surges becomes full of water surges giving WAVY.

I've completed the grid without finding the second Playfair code phrase. This means I cannot find the thematic word that needs highlighting, although I have checked all the diagonals. Any hints gratefully accepted.

Look SW to NE along the main diagonal.

In the second code phrase the first word is a place in Essex near Stansted Airport. The setter has three letters.

Thanks, unclued. I must have made some mistakes because all I get is VERULAMIAN which is similar to an old Roman town but not quite the same.