I have been most vexed by this one: I have a less-than-nodding acquaintance with the work (Let's be honest - I know the title and the author, and could have a good guess at the location). I have a full grid, and have hammered a character into the space. However the last part has me utterly baffled: is 'the last row' the last clued row, or the row containing the title? How am I meant to spot the 2 3-letter words when only 1 letter is 'unaltered'*? And what will it all mean in the end?
Finally, have I missed something, or is the clue for 7d... shoddy?
*I am taking note that it says 'alter' rather than 'changed' or 'replaced'. I hear a small bell.