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Thanks lumen & quisling, got there now, and 1d becomes obvs once it's resolved, and yes, very naughty IYAM. Still got nothing for 28a, letters I have are GL*S, no word I can find that exists to fit that, but I can't see where the letters I have are wrong

In Chambers, it's a type of parrot, Lumen

Ptobes, your letters are correct, the word appears in the entry for a six-letter word. Insert the usual crossword two-letter word for "concerning". The first letter of the last word is missing, and it's a town in the south of France

Thanks again quisling, got it now, but Man alive, that's gnarly!

Haha, wait till you get to the final step …

Still not getting NW corner sorted! Assume 1d is thematic. Please help with 10a and 18a if those aren't.

10 It's a term for 'frogs etc' - simply an anagram of 'run' and the usual 'over' abbreviation, inside the abbreviation for an association of 'rivers'/rivers with an addtional letter...

Finally got a full grid and all the thematic items. Just stuck on the last step now.

Thanks malone, I found that word but only found it meant bats.

Ah, just got it, by finding anagrams of partial entries. Pretty obscure.