I'm with everyone who found this a really hard one! I needed a lot of help, and didn't (with the exception of a very few clues) find it particularly enjoyable (and I usually love doing the Everyman).
Originally my COD was 20a until I saw Chrise's comment upthread and realised that they were right - to make sense of the clue, the middle word should have been the alternative one!
Didn't understand 23a until coming on here, so I think that is now my COD. Thanks for enlightening me!
I also started off with the alternative word for 21d, which made 26a impossible for a long time.
Still can't parse the first two words of 11d What do they have to do with 'scene woven on'?? (I'm assuming the last word is parsed from 'goddam weaving device')