A very enjoyable puzzle, with lots of 17a clues and an intereting versatile theme. I'm feeling very sluggish about the SE corner, I just can't see 22d, 23d and 29a- is 29 an anagram? Any hints gratefully received but I know I'm late to the game!
FOI 1d, COD so far 19d
Thanks Philistine for an excellent puzzle and thanks to all the forum helpers and chatters