I enjoyed this --- it is one of the few I solved within a calendar day.
However, this was posted to CrosswordSolver's Forum the day after I was in the US, so "with a little help from my friend(s)" I'm submitting my scanned solution via a New York friend's printer, envelope and domestic stamp, as my next US visit will be the deadline day for receiving entries. I wish mailing Harper's Crossword Contest Entries constituted "essential travel."
Although I found all the letters for Clue #34 I didn't arrive at the solution of the entry itself.