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I thought I had done this, but the end game has me perplexed. I am deeply confused by 31a, as I have a possible answer that fits the journey, but I cannot parse it at all. Then, as for the end game - If my 31a is right, I have 5 points on the round trip, or 4 points for the outward journey. If the preamble asked to replace one symbol with the other, or to superimpose two symbols, I would have a solution for the round trip, but it specifically states to replace a letter - which one, I haven't a clue. Playfairs always scare me, but the 2 obvious places on the journey made identifying the code word(s) quite straightforward. I shall remain baffled. My solution for 31a is 8 letters long - is that correct?

That's what I have too, the title gives a big clue as to why the final five letters are significant I think. Word for space surrounded by Latin word?

Hi gitto, I also have an 8 letter answer for 31a; 1 of the 2 regular 2 letter synonyms for space in the Latin for ....
The 2 symbols represent the event; which to observe was one of the purposes of the journey. If you know the Playfair code word you should be able to encode the 6th & 7th letters of 13d which should enable you to make the switch.

I'm struggling with the playfair thing. It all works apart from the second pair of letters in 13. In my grid the correct letters are to the left of my potential grid entries. Has anyone else found this? I must have made a mistake I guess.

Hi planks, did you include the initial 3 letter abbreviation?

Yes I did, eventually when the light dawned. I think my mistake must be in 22a, though I can't see where

Hi again planks, 22a is a 3 letter old word for close + the abbreviation for farthing giving an old word for fist, the 4 letter answer being referred to the 5 letter entry in Chambers.

Thanks for that ginge, looks like I have 22a correct so my goof must be in the dratted playfair. As this looks like being the only decent day weatherwise of the BH weekend. I think I shall return to it tomorrow.

I too am a little perplexed Gitto. I have a full grid, my last solve being 31a (which fits the theme and parses as a small space surrounded by an appropriate Latin word). I can then make the necessary transit switch but that leaves me with a non-word (unless you count it as being a dialectic word for 'strike' in reverse!). I guess that is what is required but it all looks rather inelegant. Does that tally with what you have?

Hi everyone, I'm still perplexed - I'll return later, hopefully inspired - but I doubt it - away to Derby today.