Suprisingly, this is one I got by deciding it was an anagram.
But unfortunately I got 19ac wrong which held me up on 13 and 14 d for ages. I've now got them. But a number in the SE corner elude me. Despite Geeker's hint I don't know the footballer and haven't guessed him in 27ac. I can't find one called Stunning!
I'm completely stuck on 16d, 18d, 24d and 25d despite earlier hints on the latter. I aslo have 29 still to do. I cannot see the theme. I got 22ac though cannot parse it fully, same with 7d. I've just spotted the link between 10, 11 and 26ac. Maybe that will help me with 29ac.
So hints on the ones I haven't got may help me finish. Otherwise I may give up. I don't seem to be able to get on with Qaos.