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Puzzle done but......17ac. The peseta and lira exchanged? That goes way above one’s head.
Answer: steeple hat? What actually is it? Cannot find a definition/meaning of it anywhere. Thanks.

It's in Chambers - ' a steeple-crowned hat'.

https://www.thefreedictionary.com/Steeple+hat

another name for hennin .... a bit like a witches hat

Thank you both. I’d seen both but as they weren’t the exact words, we were in doubt!